The drainage board is made from high-impact polystyrene (HIPS) or polyethylene plastic baseboard through punching to form conical protrusions (or hollow cylindrical porous structures). The top surface of the conical protrusions is bonded with a layer of filter geotextile to prevent soil particles from passing through, thereby avoiding blockage of the drainage channels and ensuring smooth water flow. Traditional drainage methods use bricks and tiles as a filter layer, with a considerable amount of pebbles or crushed stones as a water filtration layer, directing water to a specified location. Nowadays, replacing the pebble filtration layer with drainage boards saves time, labor, energy, reduces investment, and also decreases the load on buildings.

Characteristics: A good drainage system is crucial for the construction period of civil engineering and the normal use and longevity of structures. The HW-type drainage board, together with a porous seepage pipe, forms an effective drainage system. The cylindrical porous drainage board and geotextile also constitute a drainage system, thereby creating a system with functions of seepage, water storage, and drainage.

Application Areas:

Landscaping Projects: Garage roof greening, rooftop gardens, football fields, golf courses, bathing beach projects

Municipal Engineering: Road subgrades, subway tunnels

Construction Engineering: Upper or lower layers of building foundations, interior and exterior walls of basements, roof waterproofing and insulation layers, etc.

Transportation Engineering: Highway and railway subgrades, embankments, and slope protection layers

Laying Procedures:

1. Clean the laying site of debris, level with cement to ensure no uneven areas; outdoor garage roofs and rooftop gardens require a slope of 2-5‰.

2. For rooftop greening and outdoor garage roof greening, porous seepage pipes can be used in conjunction to collect water drained from the drainage board and direct it to nearby sewer pipes or city drains.

3. For waterproofing basement floors, elevate the floor above the foundation, i.e., install a layer of drainage board before constructing the floor, with the protrusions facing downward and peripheral blind ditches to prevent groundwater from rising. Seepage water naturally flows through the space of the drainage board into the peripheral blind ditches and then into the sump.

4. For waterproofing interior basement walls, lay drainage boards on the main wall surface with the protrusions facing the wall. Then, build a single wall outside the drainage board or use wire mesh with cement to protect the drainage board, allowing seepage water from outside the wall to flow directly downward into the blind ditches and then to the sump.

5. When laying drainage boards, ensure that no soil, cement, sand, or other debris enters the front space of the drainage board to keep the drainage channels clear.

6. During laying, take protective measures as much as possible. For roofs or outdoor garage applications, backfill soil promptly to prevent wind from disturbing the drainage boards and affecting laying quality. For basement and interior wall waterproofing, apply a protective layer quickly to prevent damage to the drainage boards by people or objects.

7. If the backfill soil is cohesive, it is ideal to lay 3-5 cm of sand on top of the geotextile to facilitate filtration. If the backfill is nutrient-rich or lightweight soil, no additional sand layer is needed as such soil is loose and filters water easily.

8. When laying drainage boards, overlap the edges by 1-2 connection points, or align two baseboards and overlap the geotextile above. The key is to prevent soil from entering the drainage channels of the board, ensuring smooth drainage.